Benjamin Wallace traces the history of some wine bottles circulated through auctions and tastings beginning in the 1980s that supposedly were discovered in France and belonged to or were supposed to have belonged to Thomas Jefferson. There is the one sentence summary of The Billionaire’s Vinegar. But really that’s what the book starts out doing, but evolves into an expose on old fake wines in general, albeit still with a focus on a German named Hardy Rodenstock (which doesn’t sound very German to me). It’s a fun book, but not without flaws.
My main objection is the relatively easy treatment given to Michael Broadbent, the guy in charge of auctioning wine
for Christie’s and considered to be one of if not the foremost expert on wine in the world. I mean, this whole business about the Thomas Jefferson bottles was extraordinarily silly. Basically these bottles show up with “1787 Lafitte Th. J.” engraved on them and that means they were Thomas Jefferson’s? That is really the extent of the research conducted to determine the authenticity of the bottles. And anything that turns up which could possibly, if further researched, lead to real evidence, Broadbent and Rodenstock instead just stop there and make that final determination anyway.
But it seems that since Broadbent was interviewed by Wallace, the author couldn’t quite work up the nerve to blast him in the way that he deserved. Who knows what sorts of rationalizations were used. Broadbent was old and had major heart surgery, so there’s really no point in dragging his name through the mud, is there? What more harm can he do? Instead I’ll call refer to him as “venerable” a few times. Sorry, but Rodenstock would have been nobody without someone who was supremely gullible, in the most charitable interpretation possible.
The other criticisms stem from kind of the same thing. Like, really? People were this stupid? I could go into a big thing about these dumbass super rich people pretending that a 1945 Mouton has hints of chocolate and dingleberries, but it’s not worth it. If they’re having a good time, I’m happy for them.
And I feel bad that I am pretty much slamming the book here, because I did enjoy it. It’s just that my criticisms are more specific, whereas my positive feelings are much more vague. I just liked it, you know? I wanted to make time to read it. That’s the measure of a good book, in my book. I’m more appreciative if that quality in this book than you may believe.
I’ve been going through a sort of book reading crisis lately. The last two books I’ve tried to read have not made me want to read them. One I started back in San Jose and finally gave up on shortly after getting to Arkansas a month ago. The one after that was similarly bad, and I just cast it aside a few days ago. I wondered if the books were actually that bad or if something had changed in me upon moving and starting a career. I had never read two crappy books in a row before. Maybe I lost my fastball somehow.
Alas, no, I’ve still got it. And a big thank you to Benjamin Wallace and The Billionaire’s Vinegar for proving it.